Soryu

When choosing mapo tofu, start by comparing the heat and the use of Sichuan peppercorn. Soryu's Soryu Mapo Tofu combines two kinds of doubanjiang with tofu that has a pleasantly firm bite and a subtle peppercorn aroma. One diner who tried it at lunch found it distinctly spicy but easy to keep eating, and described the tofu as firm. It sounds like a straightforward choice if you want a dish to enjoy with rice.

For more heat and numbing spice, try the Extra-Numbing Sichuan Mala Tofu. The restaurant describes it as a dish focused on fragrance and the tingling effect of Sichuan peppercorn, made with four kinds of doubanjiang sourced from Sichuan, house-made chilli oil blended with thirteen spices, and coarsely ground peppercorn. A diner who tried both dishes reported that each was spicy and full of depth, but that the Sichuan Mala Tofu was hotter and had a more pronounced peppercorn tingle. Another lunch diner also described the mala tofu as distinctly spicy and the tofu as firm. Since tolerance for heat varies, the classic version is a sensible starting point; choose the extra-numbing one if you want more intensity.

Both dishes are available as lunch sets with a small side dish, salad, soup and rice. The listed price is 1,400 yen for the Soryu Mapo Tofu Set and 1,600 yen for the Extra-Numbing Sichuan Mala Tofu Set. One customer said diners could serve themselves rice and go back for more. That makes it easy to adjust the amount of rice while keeping the tofu centre stage.

If you want a break from the spice, consider the black-vinegar sweet-and-sour pork or shrimp fried rice. The pork set comes with a small side dish, salad, soup and rice, and you can choose to have 1.5 times the amount of pork. A diner who ordered it praised the tender pork and the sweet sauce, which has fig as a subtle flavouring. The shrimp fried rice is also available as a set with a small side dish, salad and soup, and can be ordered with crab meat. One customer who tried fried rice with crab, shrimp and squid mentioned its light seasoning and the flavour of the crab. It works as a dish to share alongside the mapo tofu, or as the centrepiece of lunch.

Finish with almond tofu. Plain, mango and caramel versions are each 450 yen; sesame dumplings and coconut ice cream are also on the menu. A sweet dish is an option after the heat of the mapo tofu.

Lunch is served from 11:45 to 13:45, and dinner from 17:30 to 21:00. The restaurant is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays and accepts cash only. Dinner reservations are available, so it is worth enquiring in advance if you plan to come with a group.